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Man, I think you should re-examine your high horse there. I think if YOU understood what hifi is your comments would be different. Assuming everyone else is an idiot is not likely to build credibility any more than your own assumption that you are a genius. I'm not sure when it became your job to decide what Ken and Charles can "handle".
Dave
HiFiPlayer,
At the risk of starting a diatribe... You're right. The 288's are difficult to handle. They're heavy and it takes both hands. FYI, I have had 4 VOTTS w/802's and 511B's for some 35 years (how old are you BTW). I recently came by some large format equipment at a modest price but w/o crossovers. That's why I asked the question.
From my experience, Dave is right: 288's really roll off
below 500 hz - even when tested on a low-cutoff horn .
Best drivers for the Magic that is 300 hz X'over :
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/ Western Electric 594A
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/ JBL 375/2440 (Aluminum Diaphragm)
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/ Altec 802 (pref.with large back cover)
But Not Altec 288s
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/ Western Electric 555W
But Not Western Electric 713A,B,C
Hifiplayer,
Passive crossovers? I'm trying to get rid of them. If you know anything about horn based HF & MF systems, you'd know that milti amping with active crossovers (Properly tuned) will almost always sound better than a single amp loaded down by passive crossovers.
I just want to point out any problems in pervious replies that I was had. Maybe I have not considered for the words cosmetics. However, that maybe I have a bit assume in some people?s feel. But faith! No any other intentions or benefits.
There are the reasons that why I have an objections to someone. It caused by I was started to collect units started in ?70-about ?83 to intended to be a Hi Fi expected. Mostly was come out from the theaters that as I known.(all purchased from a second hand audio shops) But I was give up. Then sold out all of my speaker units as ALTEC (included 803, 416, 515B,8LF, 802B,G,K, 808A, 902T, 511B,E etc.) , JBL(s), EV(s), RCA etc in around ?87-?89, only a pair of EVT-350 have been keep to present. The reason is very simple. Those are not easy to control. At after, I returned to the : Infinity RS1, Kappa9, Delta; JBL4344, 45, 4430,35; EV Sentry, Georgeion, ATC100, 200; Westlake Tower12(wallet) etc. OK. I cannot listed all of my owned , then I cannot talk too far. Above is another story.
In around ?95, I have been collecting those again. Just no JBL woofers have chosen. The potential value of 288B and G, I think I have almost known. Cause I had tried more modifications then got a lot more useful experienced. I will share to any people who feel interested in later. Some related with the parts of 288 inside. And some about the LF extend lower for the 515 woofers modifications (included cut some gaps on its spider, thin carpet stick on cone etc.)
To Datubie, I?m not to preach down your ability or to affect your choosing. I just depended to my experienced to provide any opinions to you. That is the value of this board. Have you discovered more busy here while I have replied you? J
That?s why I have suggested you 802s. Cause it just 2 ways can play too great for the wild range. But 288s at least needed to modify to 3ways if you really want it plays great. Depended to your knowledge and in practically use. 802s is a very good choice at you. You must know it needed to match woofer. The 802 can match almost all Altec woofers and other as TAD, JBL, EV etc just depended to your favorites. I love 515, but it is not invincibility. So, I considering to taking out a newer EV M-series to match my 802G or 808A. This plan I still have not be decide.
To the amplifier, Just 1 KSA50s can drive the A5 rock the city. Then it?s LED mostly would not light up. To your case, if you use 2amps but those are not in same characters as (different kind/models/brands, dif power output etc). Most would get opposite result, even worst, any frequency be covered, vocals turn to backside, sounds unbalanced etc and more.
I can take my own amps to play tri-amps mono blocks in my home. But I just use a KSA connected with Jadis jp200 pre. The others just have been sitting on the floor. Some peoples would wonder that?s why I would choose KSA200S, rather any famous tubes amps. This related to my system combined and related with more factors. So, I do not explain in here.
To the crossover, a good designed passive has a bit better then active. Just you incorrected to pick up one then say it is hifi. Actually, I think that you hard to find one in market. Although you can find a good one, but it?s characters mostly not suits for your driver. It is a problem that you have but maybe never be discovered. I believed the only one way is to design one for the driver that you decided to use.(be attention to the sensitivity, impendence, feq response, power rate handle etc), don?t be easy to get one.
Usually, the costs of a pair completed passive that mostly equal to purchase few pieces of hi end active. It caused by you need to pay for the cost of develops. If some one just pick up few pieces of parts to build one then say sound very great. It just a joke! Why A5 was knockout by JBL?s monitors in the pass? I believed this is the 1 of the reasons that A5 has no high and low extension. If some one has never been concerned to the any improvements on this problem. So, his own A5 just as an old thing. For remember the pass only as Eddieson/RCA victrola.
I have several (modifications) A-5 to 3ways passive crossover designed 10years before those are aimed to the 288. This is the one of completed designs from my notebook. Crossover frequency at 200Hz. Fully tested by more expected users and measured through Bruel & Kjaer. (This instrument is for professional use for speaker development. More Hi End speaker manufactures are also depended this babe for theirs lunches.)
All capacitors before use were break in 120hours, measured in same value, selected from whole box brought with in plan on values (Kimber, MultiCap PPFX & RTX, Solen, Wima blackBox and Wonder); Solo, Solen air coils and Vishay resistors are also through measured before use. A pair of 288B on test is chosen from over 10pairs those come from participants. (Measured totally matched) Finally, Solen and multicap have been selected.
To return to topic, below is the one of take out from the 288 200Hz passive crossover design data.
The curve shows the 288 original (w/o horn) 105db, 12kHz-14kHz +6db, 5kHz-7kHz +5db, 2kHz-3kHz ?5db, roll off from 1K. (w/30166,1505B) 105db, 300hz-11khz, 500Hz-1db, 1kHz ?2db, 2.2kHz-2.6kHz +2db, 10.8kHz +4db.This graph I still keep in hand.
However, the experienced of Hi Fi is from the actually tested and listens, not from the magazines or any words! So, don?t take out your home?s magazines content or online copies to cover your face. OK!
Don?t think that you can just purchase an original set of units would play sounds what?s great if you never seriously to think about improvements for the system. You still just a consumer. Even don?t make free conclusion to the passive!